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Present Day Portishead

Location

Portishead lies within North Somerset on the Bristol Channel coast, three miles south west of the mouth of the River Avon.  Ten miles to the east is the attractive and historic City of Bristol, while the ancient City of Bath, a Heritage City, lies 25 miles to the south east.  In all directions around Portishead the coast and countryside is outstandingly beautiful, with the hills of the Cotswolds, the Mendips and the Quantocks around an hour’s journey away as are the Cheddar Gorge and the cities of Wells and Taunton.  Across the Bristol Channel is Cardiff, the vibrant capital city of Wales.  Fifteen miles down the M5 is the attractive seaside resort of Weston-super-Mare, the administrative centre of North Somerset.

 

Transport Links

Portishead is served by the M5 motorway, three miles away, and by the M4 interchange, a further nine miles away.  These provide easy motorway access along all four points of the compass.  Regular and frequent bus services link the town to Bristol, with additional good services to Cribbs Causeway, which is a giant shopping complex, to Clevedon and Nailsea, our sister towns, and to Weston-super-Mare.  Coaches provide services to London and other destinations from Portishead and there is a full coach network from Bristol which includes frequent services to Heathrow and Gatwick airports.

 

The railway linking Portishead to Bristol was axed by Beeching in 1964, but there is now the strong possibility of re-opening the line in the near future.  Bristol is served by two major stations, Temple Meads and Bristol Parkway, which offer fast rail services to London and the remainder of the country.    Temple Meads and Weston-s-Mare are readily accessed by rail from nearby Nailsea-Backwell Station with its long stay car park.

Bristol Airport, 10 miles away to the south east, will open a new £4 million terminal in 2000 with an accompanying expansion of its services  to the rest of the UK and Europe and other parts of the world.

 

Commercial shipping operates from Royal Portbury Dock and Avonmouth Docks, three miles up-channel.  Portishead used to have commercial shipping and pleasure steamers stopping at our docks and pier, but the latter now ply from renovated Clevedon Pier.  When our docks have been converted into a marina and our pier is renovated with new public access the pleasure steamers may once more stop at Portishead.

 

Our Town

When the new developments are completed, Portishead will occupy a rectangle of land stretching nearly three miles down the the coast SW from Battery Point and one mile inland, with Portishead Down and Weston Big Wood “denting” its southern corner.  The High Street and Woodhill Road will divide this area into almost equal E&W parts along a north-south axis, with its centre point at the lower end of Cabstand. 

 

Present Features

Although greatly enlarged in recent years, Portishead still retains its village atmosphere from yester-year, and some of its original village organisations are still active, such as the Flower Show which has been held since 1863.

           

The High Street still has most of its stone Victorian buildings and is often referred to by the older residents as “The Village”.   At Christmas time it is transformed when its entire length is decorated with, and illuminated by, hundreds of coloured lights. These prove as great an attraction to persons living outside the Town as those living within. In addition, a Victorian Evening is held at this time in the High Street, which is closed to traffic for the occasion. Stalls are set up on the pavements by various shops, organisations and societies and manned by stall attendants, some in Victorian costumes, to evoke the authentic Dickensian spirit of Christmas at the event.

 

Portishead Landmarks

There are many fine old buildings in the town, the most noticeable of which is the Parish Church of St. Peter, dating back to the 14th Century and built on the site of an even earlier church. Its square tower rises to almost 100 feet which is larger than most other church towers in Somerset built in that style. Its Rectors can be traced back to 1320 in the Church Records, now housed in Taunton’s Record Office. Outside the South Door of St. Peter’s, at the left of the avenue of lime trees, stands the newly refurbished Village Cross, rededicated by the Bishop of Bath & Wells on St. Peter’s Day, 29th June1994. Until approximately 200 years ago the Cross stood at the junction of Church Road South and the High Street (then named Mill Street).

 

The Churchyard has three notable graves, that of Victor Halliwell, a mechanic with Sir Henry Seagrave, and killed with him on Lake Windermere in June 1930 while attempting to set a new water speed record, and that of Commander E. Robinson, the pilot of Mr. Neville Chamberlain’s aircraft on that notable trip to Munich in September 1938 to meet Adolf Hitler, and who was killed when his aircraft crashed at Redcliffe Bay beach in November 1938; the third is the family grave of the Weatherley’s, but, not including that of the lyricist son Fred.

    

The Grange, a Grade II Listed Building, sited at the junction of St. Mary’s Road and the High Street, was one of three Manor Houses in the area. Part of the building is believed to date back to the 12th Century, with later additions made to it. During renovations in 1979-1980 it was discovered that the oldest part of the building had a cruck beam roof, indicating that at one time this was the Manorial Hall where the fire burned in the centre of the room with the smoke escaping through the roof. This roof was believed to be the only example of its type in Somerset.

 

It was also at The Grange that The Society of Friends, or Quakers, held their local meetings. George Fox, the founder of The Society, met here prior to moving to their own Meeting House in St. Mary’s Road in 1669. It is thought that the Meeting House was not built specifically for them but was a conversion of two earlier cottages.

 

Court House Farm in Church Road South, another of the Manor Houses, dates from the 16th Century approximately, although a part of the building predates the remainder of it. As it is seen today, the main building was built in Elizabethan times and a tower at its south west corner, added later, was believed to have been erected to enable its merchant occupier to observe his ships entering the mouth of the River Avon en route to Bristol Docks.

 

Opposite Court House Farm is an attractive 17th Century house, Church Cottage, whilst on the opposite side of the church, in Church Road North, is attractive Church House with the listed mounting block at

its front gate.

 

The whole of the land bounded by the two Church Roads is a Conservation Area, which continues up Newlands Hill, or Blind Lane to give it its old name. Amongst the public houses in the High Street there are two of particular note for their history. The older of the two, The Poacher, dates from the 1600,s. It has had, not surprisingly, a variety of alternative names, such as the Blew Anchor, Gordon Arms, and The Anchor before finally becoming The Poacher in more recent years.

The White Lion was formerly a water mill, and the granite grindstone from its earlier use can be seen set into the low wall fronting the High Street, replete with a plaque giving all details of the building. The building has had many uses prior to becoming a public house, including use as a Post Office before that moved in the latter part of the 19th Century to what is now Fowler’s flower shop.

 

Walks in Portishead

Portishead is fortunate in having a variety of scenery, from coastline to woodlands. The coastal walk, known locally as Mariners’ Path up to its Beach Road West junction, proceeds south westerly along the coastal edge to Clevedon, and this section is believed to be part of the Wansdyke. The walk presents a constant challenge in upkeep as erosion and land slips frequently occur. In an easterly direction from the Lake Grounds, the coastal path crosses the Esplanade and Battery Point and proceeds over the East Wood ridge to descend at the Royal Hotel. The path will soon cross the new lock and follow the line of the sea defences to Royal Portbury and the Avon Estuary and then onwards through the Avon Gorge to Ashton Gate, Bristol.

 

An attractive inland walk, which follows a section of the parish boundary, starts from the coastal path at the western boundary of the oil tanks and heads inland to the Coast Road and back towards the town as far as Valley Road.  The boundary walk then follows Valley Road, past the entrance to the Police Headquarters to the first right hand bend when the foothpath enters Weston Big Wood (one of this country’s remaining primaeval woods) and the path through can be followed either to Clevedon Road or to Wetlands Lane and Gordano School.  Below Weston Big Wood and divided by the road are the sites of the Black Rock Quarries, the western one being a favoured nesting site for raptors.  The eastern quarry is now a North Somerset Amenity Site.

 

The main entrance to Gordano School adjoins the roundabout in St. Mary’s Road which leads up to the oldest part of Portishead. Here are a number of old houses and cottages, such as Springfield,

a spacious old house probably of the 17th Century, and Capenor Cottage and Capenor Court Cottage, both of which formed part of the Capenor Court Estate along with now demolished Capenor Court itself, the third Manor House. Sadly this lovely Manor House, believed to have been the oldest in the district, was demolished in 1968 before the advent of the legislation which has since ensured the listing and preservation of our old buildings.

 

Farther up St. Mary’s Road, set into its right bank, is St. Mary’s Well, or Simmery Well, the waters of which local legend records as having healing properties for bad eyesight.  At its top the road meets Newlands Hill, formerly Blind Lane, now closed to traffic. A walk down Newlands Hill brings you at its bottom back into Church Road South.

 

Mention needs to be made of another ancient woodland which lies between Woodlands Road and Pier Road, namely Eastwood. This was designated a Nature Reserve in 1994 and lies within the Eastwood Conservation Area. The wood encloses the Broad Walk along its ridge, and this descends to Pier Road just above the Royal Hotel. In Victorian times the Royal Hotel was used as accommodation for those about to embark from Portishead Pier for the Americas, and hence many ocean voyagers’ feet have strolled the wooded seclusion of Broad Walk before boarding ship. Broad Walk is now under conservation management and has been restored to its former Victorian glory. From Broad Walk it is possible to see the Welsh coast as well as panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. As has been mentioned elsewhere, the seaward slope of Eastwood bears the remains of an Iron Age camp-site.

 

Other walks include that from Church Road South to St. Mary’s Road through the Garstons, and the Chicken Path from Slade Road to the junction of Newlands Hill where an extended view of the Gordano Valley may be obtained. On the eastern boundary of Highdown School lies the junction of The Deans with Down Road, and off that The Downs. Before the houses were built there on open land The Deans was known as Donkey Lane. It is possible to walk from The Downs across the fields to Wetlands Lane adjacent to St. Mary’s Road. This walk affords yet more panoramic views across the Gordano Valley in the direction of Bristol.

 

Perhaps one of the best known sites in Portishead is Portishead Point, known locally as Battery Point, which is situated at the northern end of the promenade. This had been a fortified site since the time of Elizabeth I. During the Civil War it underwent a four day siege by The Parliamentary forces, and by means of a simultaneous blockade of the River Avon Prince Rupert forced the eventual surrender of the City of Bristol.

 

During the Napoleonic Wars Battery Point was again manned by the military, while in the First World War of 1914-1918 the Point was excavated for the construction of underground ammunition bunkers, store rooms, etc., to serve the military stationed there as a guard unit for the Bristol Channel approaches. Between wars the rooms were used as tea rooms for the many visitors, but once more in World War II they reverted back to military use when two 4” naval guns were sited there to protect the approaches, and Battery Point was closed to the public for the duration of the war. The reason for its military significance lies in the deep water shipping channel close by the coast, flowing between Battery Point and the red port-hand Newcome Buoy 1000 yards (915 metres) off-shore. Large ocean-going

vessels pass closer to the land at Battery Point than to any other part of the UK coastline.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Famous Portishead Family

The father of the family, Dr. Frederick Weatherly, was a local GP and was also a man of considerable influence in the town.  He spent most of his free time in local politics, established, and became the first Chairman of the Long Ashton Rural District Council, a large authority of which North Weston and Redcliffe Bay were only a small part. Dr. Weatherly is buried with his wife and some of their thirteen children in the

Parish Church where there is also a commemorative window.

 

Fred Weatherly, the son, was born and spent his childhood in Portishead, living in Woodhill Road.  In his autobiography, Piano and Gown - a very readable book - Fred wrote that the memories of his childhood in Portishead, his mother’s loving affection and the stories she told in those years had the greatest influence upon his later life.  The themes of many of the 3000 lyrics and poems he subsequently penned can be traced back to those early years.  His more famous lyrics  include “Danny Boy”, “Roses of Picardy”, “The Holy City” and “Up Fom Somerzet”; all are still very popular.  He also wrote poetry and books, but he was a barrister by profession, later becoming a KC.  He was remembered with a Celebratory Memorial Service in St. Peter’s, the Parish Curch, on the 4th October, 1998, the 150th anniversary of his birth.